Use your compound or pipe-wrap tape to tighten the connections and make them airtight.
Insert a flexible gas line into the stainless steel adapter before attaching the other end to your gas line. With this step, a pipe elbow might prove effective in keeping the gas line from bending too much. Once that is done, use a stainless steel adapter as an attachment to the gas dryer’s supply pipe. Both joint compound and pipe-wrap tape are made for gas connections as a way to make sure the seal is airtight. In order to connect the gas line, the first thing that you’ll want to do is use joint compound or pipe-wrap around the threads of the valve that supplies the gas. Position the dryer close to where you plan on placing it. It’s best that you only hook up to a gas line that has a proper shut-off valve near the room where the dryer will be installed. If you’re installing a gas dryer, you’ll also want to cut off the gas at the shut-off valve. To avoid working in darkness, bring a lamp and extension cord with you. The first thing that you’ll want to do is shut off the power to whatever area of your home the dryer will be in so that you don’t accidentally shock yourself during the installation process. While the installation instructions for electric and gas dryers are a little different, both of them can be done with a few tools, a bit of patience and some great directions.
#Dryer plug install install#
Where you can read a more detailed explanation.Instead of automatically calling a professional to install your new dryer for you, why not try installing it yourself? Not only is self-installation a cheaper option, but it’s also pretty simple to do, even for the non-DIY’ers. Alternately adding GFCI protection to the circuit by replacing the breaker in the panel would make it safer and usually dryers are pretty GFCI compatible. Upgrading to a four-wire circuit would make this safer, but it's very common on older homes and not a major hazard. In the picture below, there is a ground strap that you remove when you have four wires. The exact details of the connections will differ from appliance to appliance, it will depend on how the terminal block inside the dryer is wired. When 240/120V appliances are connected without the fourth equipment grounding conductor, the connections are done such that the dryer's metal frame is bonded to the neutral (white) wire. There is a simple principle that determines how you'll make the connections. BUT, please make sure the spade terminal is straight and the bare metal is well clear of the terminals on the left and right, you do not want to create a short. There is no "definitive" answer, or standard hookup You have to follow the manufacturer's instructions but the manufacturer has dropped the ball if they have contradictory instructions out there. This is labeled "GFCI Protected / No Equipment Ground". If it is infeasible to retrofit a ground, you can change the receptacle to 4-prong anyway, wire the appliance for 4-prong anyway (meaning: isolate neutral from ground, very important!), and then use a 2-pole GFCI breaker to feed it. If your installation is old and uses a legal cable type (/3 noground or SE), then it's legal to retrofit a ground from the socket to anywhere that has a #10 or larger ground back to the panel - water heater, grounding electrode wires, any metal conduit, or back to the panel.
That will give you a separate neutral and ground. You are really, really better off upgrading to 4-prong receptacle and plug ASAP. or they are using a cable type that was always illegal (/2 + ground NM or UF). However in my experience many installations either have a 3-wire receptacle needlessly because they actually do have ground behind the receptacle. So it is leeeegal to jumper the appliance chassis to the neutral wire and then call it a day. and loose connections are unlikely since these plugs and wiring are rarely disturbed. as long as there aren't any loose connections. The concept is that neutral is supposed to be safe. What they are actually doing is connecting chassis to the live neutral. It's only legal on a legacy basis, with certain cable types because the appliance industry complained and moaned that they'd lose appliance sales if it was outlawed.
There is no way to make a 3-wire connection safe.
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